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Andrew
Spratt contributes:
Almost
one mile west of the Border town of Peebles, on a high ridge above
a loop in the river Tweed, stands the peaceful looking L-plan keep
of Neidpath castle (originally called Jedderfield) held by the
Earls of Wemyss and March. The castle site dates back to the
late13th century when a tower was raised here by the Fraser
family, in their role as sheriffs of Tweeddale. The Frasers were
originally Norman importees invited into Scotland by King David I
(1124-1153) of Scots to maintain order in the region through their
well known ruthless Norman efficiency.
Today
the Frasers are thought of as an ancient 'Highland' Clan. But like
several other Highland Clans of note ie the Hays of Slains, the
Gordons of Huntly and the Keiths of Dunnottar, they all had their
roots in the Lowlands, then migrated north through marriage,
deceit and violence. Inheriting and seizing lands in the
Highlands, eventually establishing themselves as 'Highlanders'.
The
present semi-intact tower of Neidpath has no vestiges of the
original Fraser castle. But likely the 14th century work of the
Hay family of Yester is directly ontop of the original Fraser
site. The most famous Neidpath Fraser was Sir Simon who, during
the siege of Caerlaverock castle in 1300,stole horses and armour
from King Edward I (1272-1307) of England, while actually in his
service. Simon then joined William Wallace in rebellion and
defeated the English army three times on the same day at Roslin.
In retaliation the Fraser lands of Neidpath were burnt by the
English.
Sadly
though Wallace was eventually betrayed, captured and horrifically
executed for treason by King Edward. Sir Simon like so many other
Scots 'rebels' returned to King Edward's 'peace' and was forgiven.
He then served as a soldier in France on behalf of Edward. But on
his return to Scotland he again rebelled this time with King
Robert the Bruce. After the defeat of the Scots at the battle of
Methven in 1307 Sir Simon was captured and taken in chains to
London. Where he was tortured then executed in the same manner as
Wallace. Being castrated, disembowelled having his entrails burnt
before him while still alive, then hung drawn, quartered and
decapitated. With his head placed on a stake above London bridge
beside the rotting skull of William Wallace. Given King Edward's
accolade the 'Hammer of the Scots' and the manner in which his
Royal wrath was vented on Sir Simon. Its unlikely that he treated
the Fraser tower at Neidpath any better and this goes some way to
explain why there are no traceable remains today.
The
Hay family (also of Norman descent) inherited the estate of
Neidpath through marriage to Sir Simon's only daughter around 1312
and probably built the L-plan keep in the early 14th century. The
late 17th century re-working of the upper battlements of Neidpath
are very misleading and give a false 'folly like' appearance.
Originally the battlements probably had simple bartizans (roofless
turrets). Also the main enrty to the castle was within the
re-entrant angle between the two towers of the L-plan facing the
Tweed. Reached by way of a detachable/collapsible wooden
staircase, adding to the castle's inaccessibility during times of
siege. And not by the present modern entry at courtyard level.
Although this may be part of an earlier postern gateway. But
because of the jumbled late 17th century re-workings this is
difficult to ascertain.
The
ornate courtyard gateway wall and outer buildings are also of a
late 17th century period but contain fabric from earlier 16th
century Hay buildings. Also pre-dating even these was probably a
wooden palisade to protect the cluster of wood n' wattle
construction buildings that appeared beside such great keeps in
the 14th century. But as time progressed this would have been
replaced by a stone Barmkin wall in the 16th century with cannon
loops for small arms fire to add to the courtyard's defenses.
The
lowland Hays resided at Neidpath as their chief residence until
1357 when they obtained the East Lothian estate of Yester through
marriage, building a courtyard castle astride the ruins of the
famous subterreanal 'Goblin Hall'. Yester castle then became their
principal seat, with Neidpath retained as a second home in their
role as Sheriffs of Peebles.
The
Hay family had two main branches of note, the Hays of Yester and
Neidpath in the Lowlands. While in the Highlands were the more
powerful Hays Earls of Erroll of Slains and Delgatie castles.
Though like so many other Scottish families, there were many more
sub-branches both legitimate and illegitimate, interlinked through
marriage and vassaldom to other Clans. With reference to the
Highland Hays they were tenuously allied militarily to the Gordons
of Huntly castle and at times to the Keiths of Dunnottar. While
the Lowland Hays were allied to the Douglases, originally through
vassaldom to the 'Black' Douglas but then by marriage to the 'Red'
Douglases. Who in turn routed the 'Black' Douglases on behalf of
King James II (1437-1460) of Scots. This destruction of the
'Black' Douglases and their allies the Lyndsays, was also
supported by the Gordons and Hays in the north and both families
received rewards from the King for their loyal service.
However,
in 1488 the Highland and Lowland Hays along with the Gordons and
Keiths appear to have deserted King James III (1460-1488) of Scots
prior to the battle of Sauchieburn near Stirling. Where he was
killed by a rebel Scots army led by his son Prince James (later
King James IV). In 1513 Baron Yester and the Hays of Erroll fell
at the battle of Flodden along with King James IV (1488-1513) of
Scots and many other nobles including the Douglases, Gordons and
Keiths.
During
the wars of the 'Rough Wooing' from 1544 to 1549,where by use of
castle burning the English hoped to force the marriage of Mary
Queen of Scots (1542-1587) to the English Prince Edward (later
King Edward VI of England 1547-1553) Neidpath appears to have
escaped the wrath of the English while Yester was attacked in 1547
and 1548. In the first assault the castle was stoutly defended by
the 4th Baron Yester and the English withdrew to join their main
army at Fawside hill prior to the battle of Pinkie. During this
battle the Scots were routed by combined use of land and ship
based bombardment. Baron Yester while advancing with the 'Red'
Douglas contingent was unhorsed and captured by the English
spending four years in the Tower of London.
In
the second assault in 1548 Yester was eventually taken by the
English and local 'Assured Scots' (who favoured the marriage of
Mary to Edward). The English then raised a fort at Haddington to
"insult over and annoy the whole Kingdom". In
desperation the Scots called on French military aid in evicting
these unwanted hostile tenants at Haddington. The French agreed to
this in exchange Mary was sent to France to marry Francis the
Dauphin, heir to the French throne. So Mary could never marry the
English Prince Edward, thus symbolically ending the 'Rough Wooing'
wars. But the English continued to burn castles and villages
throughout the Lothians and Borders regardless. Yester was again
recaptured by the Scots but may have been left in ruins while the
siege of Haddington continued.
After
the end of the 'Rough Wooing' Yester, appears to have been
abandoned as a residence and was replaced by a new Yester tower
close to the modern Adam's style Yester House. But this too
appears to have suffered destruction and is untraceable today,
likely due to the Hays association with Mary Queen of Scots. Sadly
when Mary returned to Scotland after the death of Francis she was
despised by are own Lords and people as a foreign whore.
Consequently any who sided with Mary were later punished by the
'King's party' (James VI) having their castles and lands sacked.
The
Hays were among Queen Mary's most loyal subjects and hospitably
entertained her at Neidpath castle in 1563. They also fielded
armies on her behalf at the battle of Carberry Hill in 1567
against the 'King's party' and at Langside in 1568. Prior to her
exile in England where she was executed by Queen Elizabeth I
(1558-1603) of England in 1587. Surprisingly, King James VI
(1567-1603) of Scots and King James I (1603-1625) of England held
a Privy Council at Neidpath in 1587. Wither the Hays were back in
Royal favour at this point or not isn't clear. In 1646, Hay of Neidpath was created 1st Earl of Tweeddale by King Charles I
(1625-1649) and commanded a Royal regiment for the King in the
confused conflicts with Oliver Cromwell's Parliament forces.
In
1650, after the defeat of the Scots army by Oliver Cromwell at the
battle of Dunbar, Neidpath was attacked and after a limited
bombardment eventually surrendered. This may explain some of the
damaged on the Tweed side of the Tower, though part of this fell
down due to neglect in 1790. In the 1680's Neidpath was purchased
by William Douglas, Duke of Queensberry for his second son, the
Earl of March, from whom is descended the present Earl of Wemyss
and March. In the late 17th and 18th centuries Neidpath was
extensively rebuilt with 'modern' folly-like work. However,
despite this it still stands as an impressive example of an L-plan
Keep and a reminder of the Borders warlike past.
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