Falkland was the country retreat of the Stewart kings
and queens of Scotland, located within easy reach of Edinburgh, yet far
enough distant to provide a welcome escape. Here the royal court could
indulge in hawking and hunting, plus more genteel recreations like
archery. Falkland boasts the oldest real (or 'royal') tennis court in
the world, built in 1539 for James V.
Falkland began as a hunting lodge owned by the Macduff Thanes of Fife as
early as the 12th century. Evidence of a 14th century fortalice (a small
fort or outwork) has been uncovered in the palace grounds. The fortalice
and much of associated hunting lodge were destroyed by the English in
1337, but the tower was rebuilt. In 1371 Robert Stewart, Duke of Albany,
took control of Falkland.
Albany was the most powerful man in the kingdom, a ruler in all but
name. In 1402 he, with Archibald,
4th Earl of Douglas, imprisoned his nephew and heir to the throne,
the Duke of Rothesay, at Falkland. It was not a gilded cage, as rumour
suggests that Albany had the Duke chained in a cellar and starved to
death, though the official version is that he died after a mysterious -
and rather convenient - illness.
When Albany finally fell from power in 1424 Falkland was seized by the
crown. James II converted the keep into a suite of comfortable
apartments for his wife, Mary of Gueldres. James III expanded the
complex of buildings, and was given to writing poetry on retreats to the
palace.
James IV added a Great Hall to act as the centrepiece for entertaining
and state occasions, but the present palatial grandeur of Falkland was
down to James V, who called in masons from Europe to transform the
earlier buildings into a Renaissance palace in the French style.
James must have had mixed feelings about Falkland, for as a young man he
was imprisoned here by his chief aide,
Archibald, 6th Earl of Angus.
The young king managed a daring escape, dressed as a groom. It seems
that the episode did not stop James from caring for the Palace; he
lavished money on Falkland, adding the great twin-towered gatehouse that
now serves as the main visitor entrance, and making it the rival of any
great stately home in Europe. James died at Falkland, following his
defeat against the English at the Battle of Solway Moss in 1542.
Mary, Queen of Scots used Falkland Palace as a retreat from the
censorious gaze of Protestant Edinburgh. She came to hawk, hunt, ride,
and play tennis.
When Mary's son James went south to take the English throne in 1603
Falkland became less important as a royal retreat. Charles I and II each
visited, but only briefly. In 1654 Cromwell's soldiers burned the Great
Hall and inflicted heavy damage to the rest of the palace buildings. It
was left to the 3rd Marquis of Bute, Hereditary Keeper of the Palace, to
restore Falkland in the late 19th century. He created apartments for
himself in the south range, and his son rebuilt James V's chapel royal.
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