The village of St Monans (or Monance) takes its name from Monan, a 9th century hermit
who built a cell near the point where a burn ran down to the sea, on the
south coast of Fife. Monan was killed by Vikings, and a shrine built in
his honour. Another version of the story says that Monan was an Irish
bishop named Moinenn, and his relics were brought to Fife by Irish
monks. Yet another version says that Monan is a Gaelic form of Ninian,
after St Ninian of Whithorn, who was active in Fife around AD 400.
Whatever his origins, people settled near the site of Monan's cell, and
pilgrims came to his shrine. A rough chapel was founded in the saint's
honour.
Then around AD 1265 a sturdy stone church was built, or rebuilt,
depending on which source you believe. The church was rebuilt a century
later by King David II, to give thanks for his delivery from a storm.
One version of the story says that the king was crossing the Firth of
Forth when his ship was caught in a violent storm. The king prayed to St
Monan for delivery, and when his prayers were answered he established a
church near the saint's shrine on the cliffs.
Another version of the story says that it was not David II but David I
(1085-1153) who was responsible for building the first chapel at St
Monans. according to this version of the tale the king had been wounded
by an arrow in a battle with the English. The monks of St Monans healed
the king of his wounds, and in gratitude he built them a chapel.
It is entirely possible that both stories are true; that David I began
the chapel and David II enlarged it.
The chapel, which later became the parish church, was built within 20
metres of the high cliffs at St Monans. It is often claimed the the Auld
Kirk is built nearer the sea than any other church in Scotland, and it
is easy to believe it when you see how close the building is to the
cliff's edge.
The church may never have been finished, for it lacks a nave. It is
built to a cruciform plan, with a choir and transepts, with a striking
spire above the crossing.
The most interesting features of the church interior are the beautiful
vaulting on the choir ceiling. The vaulting boasts lovely painted bosses
at the intersections, depicting heraldic designs. The coats of arms
include those of the Earl of Douglas, the Earl of Fife, and the Earl of
Annandale. The Royal Arms of Scotland is set above the original site of
the altar.
The oldest part of the church is the stonework and windows in the south
aisle. An aumbry (inset cupboard) and a piscina mark the site of a
medieval altar which stood where the present doorway is. Behind the
pulpit is the arch of the original west door, now blocked, and you can
see the channel in the stones for the door bar.
The interior is whitewashed throughout, giving it a spacious, light
aura. Despite the whitewash you can easily make out consecration symbols
in the form of Celtic crosses. There is a particularly fine consecration
cross near the 14th century piscina in the chancel.
In 1471 King James III gave the kirk to a small monastery of Dominican
friars founded beside the site. In 1544 the chapel was burned in an
English naval attack on the Fife coast. The chapel was converted into
the parish church in 1646, when the transepts were blocked off and fell
out of use. A wooden gallery was inserted in 1796, then removed again
when the entire church was restored by William Burn in 1826. Burn also
opened up the transepts again, giving the church back its original
layout. He also lowered the floor by 4 feet, and added the distinctive
buttresses on the church exterior.
One thing that all visitors remark on is the 18th century model of a
ship suspended from the ceiling. It is a reminder of the strong links
between the people of Fife and the sea. The model was given to the
church in 1800 by Captain Marr of the Royal Navy, who was born in the
village. In the north transept is a memorial to Henry Anstruther
(d.1858), which appears to incorporate the frame of a medieval brass.
St Monans Auld Kirk is one of the few remaining medieval churches in
Scotland still in use. It has also been listed as one of the 10 most
beautiful churches in Scotland.
Douglas arms
It is claimed that the heraldic shields on the ceiling are original.
However, the douglas arms would not have had Bruce's heart in 1330.
It is also noted that the stars show six points. A heraldic artist from
those times would not have got that wrong.
Why there should be a Douglas crest in St Monans is not clear.
There may be a connection with the lucrative pilgrim route from East
Lothian to St Andrews, or there could be a connection with
John Douglas (c. 1494 – 1574), who
was Archbishop of St. Andrews from 1572 to 1574. |
